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2011-12-02 | 五指山步道 (Wu zhi shan hiking trail)
Sometimes the weather is just too good to be sitting in a fabric covered box and rewriting code that former colleagues perpetrated. Last Friday was such a day.
I've been wanting to go hiking the peaks of 五指山 (Wu zhi shan, literally translated "Five finger mountain") for a while, especially since I had already been to the road-accessible top several times by bike.
Even though it's not particularly high 五指山 (Wu zhi shan) is one of the most remarkable mountains in the area, partly because of its peculiar shape. Here's a picture of the mountain that I took last year on a trip to 觀霧 (Guan wu):
The hike is neither very long nor very strenuous, but given that you're hiking across five hills and back there is quite a bit of up and down involved as you can easily see from the topographic map and the altitude chart:
The entire hike is less than 6 km long and took only slightly over three hours including a 20 minute lunch break. Of course, without stopping every few minutes to take photos I might have shaved off another few minutes, but then I wouldn't have anything to show to you. :-)
灶君堂 (Zao jun tang), one of many temples on 五指山 (Wu zhi shan). The god that is worshiped here is the kitchen god.
Behind the temple is the entrance to the 五指山登山步道(登頂步道), the Wu zhi shan crest hiking trail. Just head up the stairs, then turn right and left again under the roof. If you're not as blind as I was you'll notice the little red "登山口" sign on the post, which I only discovered upon closer inspection of the photo. Or, as in my case, you may run into the friendly owner who can give you hiking tips.
There's also a little map of the area. Unfortunately it is not really complete as several trails are missing. The trail actually continues after the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), so you can easily hike the entire hand.
Also, there is a small unmapped trail going down from the saddle between the 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), but it's quite steep and I don't know where it ends up.
After a short walk you reach this point where the two hiking trails (the lateral and the crest one) connect. However, the lateral trail is closed at this point and given the sturdy quality of the sign that seems to be more of a permanent than a temporary state. You can, however, access the lateral hiking trail from the entrance on the other side.
食指峰 (Index finger peak) has a somewhat obstructed but nevertheless nice view. Plus, you can learn something about the local aborigines.
The pass between 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). To the left there's a small and steep trail going down. It probably leads back down to the lateral trail and 灶君堂 (Zao jun tang) but I haven't tried it yet.
It's beyond me how someone can lose his shoes on the mountain, but at least somebody was gathering all the trash ...
This part of the forest really reminded me of Switzerland. The forest is much less dense than elsewhere and the ground is merely covered with twigs and leaves. You don't see this a lot in Taiwan.
This photo might as well have been taken in Switzerland! This is what our forest hiking trails look like. :-)
The big shocker once you get to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) - a bunch of ugly antenna towers. Luckily I had been warned on the way by fellow hikers who told me how disappointed they were when they discovered these. Apparently those were put up fairly recently and it does take away a little from the nice scenery.
Despite the antennas in the back, the view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) is great. And how often can you tell people that you stood on the middle finger and had lunch there? ;-)
The great view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). The little village on the left is 北埔 (Bei pu), on the right is 竹東 (Zhu dong), and in the background you can see 新竹 (Hsinchu) and 竹北 (Zhu bei).
With the antenna towers also came this little road, so you can actually drive a car up to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). If you do, however, you should be prepared for scornful looks from hikers. :-)
There's a great view from between the last two fingers. You can see quite far and you might be able to see the military base on top of 樂山 (Le shan) if it's not surrounded by clouds.
The last two fingers don't seem to have official names, by the way. The ring finger goes by the odd name of 無名峯 (No name peak) and the pinky is sometimes referred to as 小指峯 (Pinky peak).
This is the last view you'll get if you turn around at the pinky. Neither of the last two peaks has a real view.
The trail, however, continues after the pinky. These are the little signs for reference. (Click here for a bigger version.)
I've been contributing a lot of my biking and hiking routes to OpenStreetMap recently and this one is no exception. I hope this will be useful for fellow hikers. (If you zoom out there are some rendering issues, i.e. you'll see outdated tiles, but with time that problem should disappear.)
2011-10-18 | Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (Taiwan Centennial)
For Taiwan's centennial celebrations, earlier this month, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall was lit with the projections of artwork submitted by people from various countries. Here are a couple of them:
2011-09-30 | 好望角 (Hao wang jiao)
好望角 (Hao wang jiao) shares its name with the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. The view doesn't quite measure up and the snack stands at the top don't even come close to wild Ostriches, but it's much more convenient to get there.
So with autumn slowly approaching we decided to take the opportunity of one of the last summery weekends and head south, about a scooter hour away from Hsinchu. It's basically a hill, a few kilometers of coastline and a handful of wind turbines, but despite its simplicity it makes for a beautiful scenery.
I don't know what it is with people pointing into their photos - photos are supposed to lead the viewer's eye to the right place. This girl was exclusively taking photos of her finger. Apparently the beautiful landscape doesn't speak for itself.
We picked a great day to go there. After a week of freezing cold weather (temperatures between 20-25 °C ;-) we had real summer temperatures again.
A small scarp where long-buried shells and other sea animals are visible in stacked sediment layers.
A wind turbine at 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan). Literally the name translates to "Cape Paradise" but if paradise has that much trash and broken glass lying around I'd rather stay out of paradise.
An old railway tunnel. You can actually walk through but because we didn't know where we would end up we decided to take a raincheck.
2011-09-12 | 東眼山 (Dong yan shan)
Two months ago, in preparation for our 雙北 biking trip, we had biked to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan). To be more precise, only to the entrance of the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreational Area) because there's nothing to see inside if you're sitting on a bike. Anyway, the area looked so nice at the time that I figured on this long weekend (Moon festival) I could take Ivy there by scooter for a bit of hiking to the top of the mountain.
We were a bit skeptical at first regarding the weather but we ended up lucky since the sky up in 桃園 (Taoyuan) was less cloudy than back home. The view at the top is great indeed but I'll let you see for yourself:
The head of the 東眼山志繼山步道 (Dong yan shan & Zhi ji shan hiking trail) is located along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) about 1-2 kilometers before the entrance to the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreation Area).
There are two places where the trail would be very easy to miss if it weren't for the omnipresent little flags that hiking clubs hang as part of a little "been there" tagging game.
Even though the trail runs along the ridge, which, incidentally, is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 新北市 (New Taipei city), there are not many places where you get a view because of the dense vegetation. Once in a while, though, there will be a tree missing and you can see the view, complete with one of the many beautiful butterflies.
The top of 志繼山 (Zhi ji shan), roughly half an hour from the trail head. Unfortunately there's nothing to see here, so for the view you have to keep going to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan).
The trail is apparently not very well frequented, so I had to wield a stick in front of my body the entire time to avoid collecting spiders and their sticky homes.
At this point we entered the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreational Area) where the nature trails make way to stairs and other overdeveloped trail forms. There's a little pavilion along the way that provides a bit of the view. Still not beautiful enough though, so we kept going ...
The entrance to the lookout platform on top of 東眼山 (Dong yan shan). It's not exactly reassuring to see a "Only 5 people at a time on the stairs" sign but we've crossed weaker looking bridges on our previous hikes, so it didn't scare us off.
Finally at the top we asked a nice yet geographically slightly challenged couple to take a picture of us. I call for better geography education in Taiwan! :-)
The view at the top is indeed rewarding because you can see all the way to Taipei. It's not clear on the picture but you can see 觀音山 (Guan yin shan), 陽明山 (Yang ming shan), and even Taipei 101 with your bare eyes.
Looking southwards we only saw a big cloud creeping over the higher mountains in the distance. Judging from Google Earth you might be able to see 雪山 (Xue shan) on a clear day.
According to the map the 東眼山步道 (Dong yan shan hiking trail) actually continues towards the East, so that you can eventually reach 拉卡山 (La ka shan) and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan). Indeed, the trail does continue if you pass the stairs and under the view platform. If this overgrown little sign is any indicator at all 拉卡山 (La ka shan) can be reached in 160 minutes and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan) in 200 minutes. Going there and coming back would be a solid one-day hike, so I guess we'll save that for some other day.
Having enjoyed the view we went back down the stairs where the triangulation point is (interestingly enough not in the highest point) and enjoyed our lunch in the shade.
The way down is even fancier than the way up. And the closer we got to the park's tourist information center the clearer it became that this is where city people take their kids to "see nature".
The last few hundred meters between the park's entrance and the restaurant look like this. And sure enough you can see people with high heels getting their few hours worth' of nature. :-)
If you're like me and always give people the benefit of the doubt you might be disappointed here: I suspected this might be the wheelchair-accessible section of their forest trail, but alas, shortly after a flight of stairs set an end to that thought.
After exiting the park area we had to walk along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) for about twenty minutes to get back to our scooter. Traffic was very light though ...
For reference, here's a picture of the park map. Click here for a bigger version.
And, as always, the track log:
2011-08-27 | Taipei Zoo
We like to go to the zoo once in a while, and this time I had the proper equipment for it: a 55-300 mm lens for my DSLR. It's like wildlife photography for people without patience and money for expensive photo equipment. :-)
A Southern Pig-tailed Macaque. Does this remind anyone else of that annoying little creature from Lord of the Rings?
This was hilarious. The Malayan Tapirs were just being fed but the Siamangs immediately started stealing the vegetables and sneaked off with them. The tapirs couldn't care less though - they seemed more interested in the green leaves.
團團 (Tuan tuan), the male panda, doing what he does best: lying around in the same place he was when we visited him two years ago. With that sort of energy level it's no big surprise that Pandas are endangered.
The poorest Pelican you'll ever see. It's hard to imagine how he can survive with half his beak missing but he seems to manage. When he drinks he just quickly snaps back his head, so that the water won't flow it.
2011-08-14 | Comfort food
Because pictures say more than words and because drooling on your mouse or keyboard might make the Logitech stock price go up ...
![The legendary [local:/blog/2010/07/21/chocolate-goodness/ Chocolate Cake], now with sprinkles!](/gallery/data/snapshots-taiwan-2011/images/700/20110814-220527_MR7944_D90.jpg)
The legendary Chocolate Cake, now with sprinkles!

Zopf, a traditional type of Swiss bread.

A totally new shape of Zopf. It's actually a long, ordinary Zopf turned into a knot. :-)
2011-08-07 | 兩日雙北 (Two days, two cross-island highways)
Four bikes, two days, 292 kilometers, and eight very sore legs. That's the summary of last weekend's bike trip which took us from 新竹縣 (Hsinchu county) across the central mountain range to 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county) and back the next day:
The lower arc was the first day, the upper arc the second day. These are the elevation diagrams:


It's difficult in Taiwan to avoid the traffic, especially on popular routes like the cross-island highways. Accidents on those narrow mountain roads are unfortunately quite frequent, caused by aggressively driving motorcyclists, Sunday car drivers who lack mountain road skills, but also by careless cyclists without lights or helmet.
There are a few tunnels on these roads, so any vehicle entering the completely unilluminated tunnel from the bright sunlight is unlikely to see an unlit cyclist. And the number of riders who consider a helmet nothing but an unnecessarily heavy sun shield is alarmingly high. I didn't get to shoot any "Darwin at work" photos but we did cross an ambulance on the way.
We chose - equipped with helmets and lights - to leave on Sunday morning in an attempt to minimize traffic, at least for the second day. Getting up at 0430 in the morning is probably my least favorite part about biking, and the sunrise isn't worth it, but with over 160 km to go on the first day it is a necessity.
Schedule (Day 1)
Day 1:
0530: Meeting point, 竹北喜來登大飯店 (Zhubei Sheraton Hotel)
0625: 關西 (Guan xi)
0630: Rest stop, 台3線/羅馬公路入口 (Highway 3 & Luo ma gong lu entrance)
0645: Departure, 羅馬公路入口 (Luo ma gong lu entrance)
0840: 羅馬公路出口 (Luo ma gong lu exit)
0855: 北橫入口 (Northern Cross-island highway entrance)
0915: Rest stop, 北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing)
0925: Departure, 北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing)
1035: 蘇樂橋 (Su le bridge)
1045: 巴陵大橋 (Big Ba ling bridge)
1125: 巴陵/拉拉山叉路 (Ba ling, La La shan fork)
1255: 四陵 (Si ling)
1315: 桃園縣/宜蘭縣 縣界 (Taoyuan county/Yilan county border)
1335: Lunch break, 明池 (Ming chi)
1455: Departure, 明池 (Ming chi)
1515: Highest point of Highway 7
1525: "777", 台7線77公里 (Highway 7, 77 km sign)
1600: 台7線/台7甲線叉路 (Highway 7 & Highway 7-bis crossroad)
1720: 圓山 (Yuan shan)
1805: 礁溪 (Jiao xi)
Distance: 162.2 km
Ascent: 2580 m
Maximum elevation: 1215 m
The second day was marked mostly by sore legs, joints, butts, and other body parts, on top of which came the heat of a clear summer day. Unlike the previous day where the mountainous climate cooled us down a little bit, wind and clouds were a rarity. After lunch an outside thermometer displayed 42 °C in the sun.
Unfortunately there is no interesting route back from Taipei to Hsinchu, so after the relatively quiet highway 110 we soon ended up on highway 3, one of the two large and long roads that connect Northern Taiwan with Southern Taiwan. The traffic on those is rather annoying and we soon ended up in the middle of rush hour traffic.
Only after 龍潭 (Long tan), where we took a shortcut, did the traffic get better again. Of course the shortcut came with a price: The last ascent of the day. But with over 250 km behind you most of your body is numb anyway, so it doesn't hurt that much.
Schedule (Day 2)
0820: Departure, 礁溪 (Jiao xi)
0935: Rest stop, 1st peak, 宜蘭縣/新北市 縣界 (Yilan county/Taipei City border)
0950: Departure
1040: Rest stop, 坪林 (Ping lin)
1105: Departure
1155: Rest stop, 石碇 (Shi ding)
1225: Departure
1245: Lunch break, 新店 (Xin dian)
1335: Departure, 42 °C outside!
1430: Rest stop, 三峽 大成國小 (San xia, Da cheng elementary school)
1455: Departure
1500: 三峽 台110線/台3線叉路 (San xia, Highway 110/3 crossroads)
1520: Rest stop, 三峽 台3線/台7線叉路 (San xia, Highway 3/7 crossroads)
1530: Departure
1700: 龍潭 (Long tan)
1715: Rest stop
1730: Departure
1800: 新埔 (Xin pu)
1815: 竹北喜來登大飯店 (Zhubei Sheraton Hotel)
Distance: 133.5 km
Ascent: 1681 m
Maximum elevation: 552 m
Photos
The start of 北橫 (Bei heng), the Northern Cross-Island Highway. Getting there from Hsinchu already took us a slightly over three hours, so we started the difficult part of our trip with over 60 km in our legs.
A preview of what I imagine my daughter would look like if I had one: a sixth-grader on a road bike.
北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing) is a popular rest stop for cyclists, bikers, and other tourists. The shops there sell 水蜜桃蜜 (Peach honey water) but trying is free.
The western part of the highway has a lot of downhill sections - not exactly what you want when you're trying to make your way up to 1,200 m.
The remains of an old dam. It was probably torn down when the 荣华大壩 (Rong hua dam) was built a few hundred meters upstream.
And the older 巴陵橋 (Ba Ling bridge), which is now exclusively for pedestrians (and bikers if you don't mind the dark tunnels on both sides).
Just before the fork to 拉拉山 (La la shan). After this point the traffic becomes a lot lighter and the road narrower.
There are many misleading road signs in Taiwan, but this is one of the more frustrating ones. The altitude of 1,140 meters is not actually measured at this point but a few kilometers later after a further ascent of over 100 meters!
A dyslexic toilet in 四陵 (Si ling). I'd bet good money that the sign was written by the same person who misplaced the "Elevation: 1,140 meters" sign. :-)
The closer we got to the top the more the weather started to turn. Taiwan's mountain roads are infamous for quickly turning weather, so we were extremely lucky to stay dry for the duration of the whole trip.
Finally, 大同鄉 (Da tong township)! This point is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county).
Richard and Sonic arriving in 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county). From here to the highest point of 北橫 (Northern Cross-Island Highway) there are still several downhill sections, but lunch is only a few kilometers away ...
My trusted GT mountain bike. I had chosen the mountain bike over the road bike to spare my knees and make the lengthy downhill part more enjoyable. I had switched to thinner road tires just for this trip, which makes a world of difference.
明池 (Ming chi) literally means "clear lake". But this green sludge hardly deserves the name! I guess even geography is all about marketing ...
The last uphill segment between 明池 (Ming chi) and the highest point of the day. The latter one is so unspectacular and hard to determine that there are no pictures. :-)
Ray, visibly happy to have reached "777", the most famous spot of 台7線 (Highway 7). Hardly a cyclist doesn't stop there to take a few pictures.
The vast riverbed in 大同 (Da tong) is being used as a farmland for water melons. From here it was all flat until our hotel, but still over 30 kilometers to go. This was the only time I really wished for my road bike.
On the morning of the second day in front of our hotel in 礁溪 (Jiao xi), from right to left: Ray, myself, Sonic, Richard, and Richard's wife. Richard's wife did us a huge favor by accompanying us by car and making sure we were well watered and fed for the entire time.
龜山島 (Turtle Island) as seen from the 北宜 (Taipei-Yilan Highway). The road crosses two mountains on the way from 礁溪 (Jiao xi) to 新店 (Xin dian). Luckily neither one of them are as high as the first day's.
Without a doubt the hottest part of our two-day bike trip. The temperatures in 新店 (Xin dian) had reached over 40 degrees, so on the way back to 三峽 (San xia) our brains were nearly boiling under our helmets.
2011-07-04 | Switzerland 2011: Matzlenfurggelen
If you can properly pronounce this mountain's name you're halfway ready for your Swiss passport: Matzlenfurggelen.
The peak itself is quite easily reachable and not that tall, but it gives a beautiful 360° view of valleys, lakes, and mountains. We took a tiny cable car to reach the level of the Stausee Garichti, an old reservoir, and hiked from there.
Despite the initial drizzle we ended up very lucky with the weather and spotting some wildlife, giving me a chance to play with my new 300 mm zoom lens. Bird or no bird, this was my favorite hiking trip of my vacation.
The view from the Matzlenfurggelen hiking trail. From left to right: Vorder Glärnisch, Wiggis, Rautispitz
Alpenrose is a beautiful kind of Rhododendron that's very common in the Swiss Alps.
The Glärnisch, the most prominent mountain in the area. On the other side lies the Klöntalersee.
The beautiful plumage illuminated by light but unfortunately slightly out of focus because the photographer is normally shooting less agile subjects like mountains or lakes ...
... and ended up catching him all fluffed up by the wind. It almost makes you want to cuddle it if it weren't for the claws and the beak.
2011-06-28 | Switzerland 2011: Gruenseeli and Rheinschlucht
Next up are the photos of two little hikes we did, the first one to an idyllic mountain lake called Grüenseeli, the second one to what some people call the "Swiss Grand Canyon".
After a huge landslide covered large parts of a valley with rubble 10,000 years ago, the Anterior Rhine started digging the canyon known as the Ruinaulta. It has become a popular destination for hikers, bikers, rafters, and, apparently, Swiss people living abroad. ;-)
The Grüenseeli (probably) doesn't have such an exciting history. It is a tiny lake that lies not too far from Arosa, yet far enough to keep away the tourist masses. Luckily this wasn't a concern for us in the first place since summer vacation season hadn't started yet. More of a concern was the weather which set an abrupt end to my taking pictures when the looming rain clouds finally opened their flood gates and forced my camera to retreat.
A bench by a little lake called Grüenseeli. Swiss German likes diminutives, so this one means "Little green lake". :-)
The water in these mountain lakes is so clear you could have a swim - if it weren't for the cold temperatures.
A second little lake just above the first one. In the background the Western half of the Tiejer Flue.
What looks like your ordinary mountain on this photo is actually the South side of a massive high plateau, the Flimserstein.
Il spir, the spectacular view platform that opened in 2006. Although not exactly obvious its shape was inspired by that of the Common Swift.
The view down into the "Swiss Grand Canyon", a canyon dug by the Rhine's headwaters after a vast landslide about 10,000 years ago.




![There's also a little map of the area. Unfortunately it is not really complete as several trails are missing. The trail actually continues after the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), so you can easily hike the entire hand.
Also, there is a small unmapped trail going down from the saddle between the 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), but it's quite steep and I don't know where it ends up.
([local:/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/original/20111125-122643_MR9198_D90.jpg Click here for a larger version])](/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/700/20111125-122643_MR9198_D90.jpg)








![The pass between 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). To the left there's a small and steep trail going down. It probably leads back down to the lateral trail [http://www.panoramio.com/photo/21331009 and 灶君堂 (Zao jun tang)] but I haven't tried it yet.](/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/700/20111125-132031_MR9251_D90.jpg)













![The trail, however, continues after the pinky. These are the little signs for reference. ([local:/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/original/20111125-142640_MR9315_D90.jpg Click here for a bigger version].)](/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/700/20111125-142640_MR9315_D90.jpg)











































![For reference, here's a picture of the park map. [local:/gallery/data/dong-yan-shan/images/original/20110709-110418_MR9835_Z750.jpg Click here for a bigger version].](/gallery/data/dong-yan-shan/images/700/20110709-110418_MR9835_Z750.jpg)





![A Southern Pig-tailed Macaque. Does this remind anyone else of that [http://images.google.com/search?q=gollum&hl=en&num=0&biw=1044&bih=964&tbm=isch annoying little creature] from Lord of the Rings?](/gallery/data/taipei-zoo/images/700/20110820-135715_MR8081_D90.jpg)

















































![[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhododendron_ferrugineum Alpenrose] is a beautiful kind of Rhododendron that's very common in the Swiss Alps.](/gallery/data/matzlenfurggelen/images/700/20110605-154658_MR7504_D90.jpg)






![The Glärnisch, the most prominent mountain in the area. On the other side lies the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klöntalersee Klöntalersee].](/gallery/data/matzlenfurggelen/images/700/20110605-161323_MR7530_D90.jpg)






















![Il spir, the spectacular view platform that opened in 2006. Although not exactly obvious its shape was inspired by that of the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Swift Common Swift].](/gallery/data/rheinschlucht/images/700/20110602-143247_MR7312_D90.jpg)



