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五指山步道 (Wu zhi shan hiking trail)

posted by Martin Rubli at 11:09

Sometimes the weather is just too good to be sitting in a fabric covered box and rewriting code that former colleagues perpetrated. Last Friday was such a day.

I've been wanting to go hiking the peaks of 五指山 (Wu zhi shan, literally translated "Five finger mountain") for a while, especially since I had already been to the road-accessible top several times by bike.

Even though it's not particularly high 五指山 (Wu zhi shan) is one of the most remarkable mountains in the area, partly because of its peculiar shape. Here's a picture of the mountain that I took last year on a trip to 觀霧 (Guan wu):

五指山 (Five finger mountain), one of the most remarkable mountains in Hsinchu, seen from above.

The hike is neither very long nor very strenuous, but given that you're hiking across five hills and back there is quite a bit of up and down involved as you can easily see from the topographic map and the altitude chart:

The entire hike is less than 6 km long and took only slightly over three hours including a 20 minute lunch break. Of course, without stopping every few minutes to take photos I might have shaved off another few minutes, but then I wouldn't have anything to show to you. :-)


View from the 五指山 (Wu zhi shan) parking lot. The city in the background is 新竹 (Hsinchu).

View from the 五指山 (Wu zhi shan) parking lot. The city in the background is 新竹 (Hsinchu).

灶君堂 (Zao jun tang), one of many temples on 五指山 (Wu zhi shan). The god that is worshiped here is the kitchen god.

灶君堂 (Zao jun tang), one of many temples on 五指山 (Wu zhi shan). The god that is worshiped here is the kitchen god.

竹林禪苑 (Zhu lin chan yuan), which is part temple, part garden.

竹林禪苑 (Zhu lin chan yuan), which is part temple, part garden.

Behind the temple is the entrance to the 五指山登山步道(登頂步道), the Wu zhi shan crest hiking trail. Just head up the stairs, then turn right and left again under the roof. If you're not as blind as I was you'll notice the little red "登山口" sign on the post, which I only discovered upon closer inspection of the photo. Or, as in my case, you may run into the friendly owner who can give you hiking tips.

Behind the temple is the entrance to the 五指山登山步道(登頂步道), the Wu zhi shan crest hiking trail. Just head up the stairs, then turn right and left again under the roof. If you're not as blind as I was you'll notice the little red "登山口" sign on the post, which I only discovered upon closer inspection of the photo. Or, as in my case, you may run into the friendly owner who can give you hiking tips.

There's also a little map of the area. Unfortunately it is not really complete as several trails are missing. The trail actually continues after the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), so you can easily hike the entire hand.

Also, there is a small unmapped trail going down from the saddle between the 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), but it's quite steep and I don't know where it ends up.

([local:/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/original/20111125-122643_MR9198_D90.jpg Click here for a larger version])

There's also a little map of the area. Unfortunately it is not really complete as several trails are missing. The trail actually continues after the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), so you can easily hike the entire hand.

Also, there is a small unmapped trail going down from the saddle between the 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak), but it's quite steep and I don't know where it ends up.

(Click here for a larger version)

The back of 竹林禪苑 (Zhu lin chan yuan) where the hiking trail begins.

The back of 竹林禪苑 (Zhu lin chan yuan) where the hiking trail begins.

After a short walk you reach this point where the two hiking trails (the lateral and the crest one) connect. However, the lateral trail is closed at this point and given the sturdy quality of the sign that seems to be more of a permanent than a temporary state. You can, however, access the lateral hiking trail from the entrance on the other side.

After a short walk you reach this point where the two hiking trails (the lateral and the crest one) connect. However, the lateral trail is closed at this point and given the sturdy quality of the sign that seems to be more of a permanent than a temporary state. You can, however, access the lateral hiking trail from the entrance on the other side.

The trail is pretty good to walk. It either consists of stairs or looks like this.

The trail is pretty good to walk. It either consists of stairs or looks like this.

There are many beautiful trees on the way and the forest is quite diverse.

There are many beautiful trees on the way and the forest is quite diverse.

拇指峰 (Thumb peak).

拇指峰 (Thumb peak).

The stairs down from 拇指峰 (Thumb peak) onwards.

The stairs down from 拇指峰 (Thumb peak) onwards.

The "pass" between 拇指峰 (Thumb peak) and 食指峰 (Index finger peak).

The "pass" between 拇指峰 (Thumb peak) and 食指峰 (Index finger peak).

食指峰 (Index finger peak) has a somewhat obstructed but nevertheless nice view. Plus, you can learn something about the local aborigines.

食指峰 (Index finger peak) has a somewhat obstructed but nevertheless nice view. Plus, you can learn something about the local aborigines.

The pass between 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). To the left there's a small and steep trail going down. It probably leads back down to the lateral trail [http://www.panoramio.com/photo/21331009 and 灶君堂 (Zao jun tang)] but I haven't tried it yet.

The pass between 食指峰 (Index finger peak) and 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). To the left there's a small and steep trail going down. It probably leads back down to the lateral trail and 灶君堂 (Zao jun tang) but I haven't tried it yet.

It's beyond me how someone can lose his shoes on the mountain, but at least somebody was gathering all the trash ...

It's beyond me how someone can lose his shoes on the mountain, but at least somebody was gathering all the trash ...

Once in a while there's a point like this where you can peek out of the forest.

Once in a while there's a point like this where you can peek out of the forest.

Benches close to the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak).

Benches close to the 中指峰 (Middle finger peak).

This part of the forest really reminded me of Switzerland. The forest is much less dense than elsewhere and the ground is merely covered with twigs and leaves. You don't see this a lot in Taiwan.

This part of the forest really reminded me of Switzerland. The forest is much less dense than elsewhere and the ground is merely covered with twigs and leaves. You don't see this a lot in Taiwan.

This photo might as well have been taken in Switzerland! This is what our forest hiking trails look like. :-)

This photo might as well have been taken in Switzerland! This is what our forest hiking trails look like. :-)

The big shocker once you get to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) - a bunch of ugly antenna towers. Luckily I had been warned on the way by fellow hikers who told me how disappointed they were when they discovered these. Apparently those were put up fairly recently and it does take away a little from the nice scenery.

The big shocker once you get to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) - a bunch of ugly antenna towers. Luckily I had been warned on the way by fellow hikers who told me how disappointed they were when they discovered these. Apparently those were put up fairly recently and it does take away a little from the nice scenery.

Despite the antennas in the back, the view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) is great. And how often can you tell people that you stood on the middle finger and had lunch there? ;-)

Despite the antennas in the back, the view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak) is great. And how often can you tell people that you stood on the middle finger and had lunch there? ;-)

The great view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). The little village on the left is 北埔 (Bei pu), on the right is 竹東 (Zhu dong), and in the background you can see 新竹 (Hsinchu) and 竹北 (Zhu bei).

The great view from 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). The little village on the left is 北埔 (Bei pu), on the right is 竹東 (Zhu dong), and in the background you can see 新竹 (Hsinchu) and 竹北 (Zhu bei).

With the antenna towers also came this little road, so you can actually drive a car up to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). If you do, however, you should be prepared for scornful looks from hikers. :-)

With the antenna towers also came this little road, so you can actually drive a car up to 中指峰 (Middle finger peak). If you do, however, you should be prepared for scornful looks from hikers. :-)

If you continue towards the last two fingers you'll pass through this bamboo forest.

If you continue towards the last two fingers you'll pass through this bamboo forest.

There's a great view from between the last two fingers. You can see quite far and you might be able to see the military base on top of 樂山 (Le shan) if it's not surrounded by clouds.

There's a great view from between the last two fingers. You can see quite far and you might be able to see the military base on top of 樂山 (Le shan) if it's not surrounded by clouds.

The last two fingers don't seem to have official names, by the way. The ring finger goes by the odd name of 無名峯 (No name peak) and the pinky is sometimes referred to as 小指峯 (Pinky peak).

The last two fingers don't seem to have official names, by the way. The ring finger goes by the odd name of 無名峯 (No name peak) and the pinky is sometimes referred to as 小指峯 (Pinky peak).

This is the last view you'll get if you turn around at the pinky. Neither of the last two peaks has a real view.

This is the last view you'll get if you turn around at the pinky. Neither of the last two peaks has a real view.

The trail, however, continues after the pinky. These are the little signs for reference. ([local:/gallery/data/wu-zhi-shan/images/original/20111125-142640_MR9315_D90.jpg Click here for a bigger version].)

The trail, however, continues after the pinky. These are the little signs for reference. (Click here for a bigger version.)


I've been contributing a lot of my biking and hiking routes to OpenStreetMap recently and this one is no exception. I hope this will be useful for fellow hikers. (If you zoom out there are some rendering issues, i.e. you'll see outdated tiles, but with time that problem should disappear.)


(Click here to view a larger map)


Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (Taiwan Centennial)

posted by Martin Rubli at 15:00

For Taiwan's centennial celebrations, earlier this month, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall was lit with the projections of artwork submitted by people from various countries. Here are a couple of them:

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好望角 (Hao wang jiao)

posted by Martin Rubli at 16:58

好望角 (Hao wang jiao) shares its name with the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa. The view doesn't quite measure up and the snack stands at the top don't even come close to wild Ostriches, but it's much more convenient to get there.

So with autumn slowly approaching we decided to take the opportunity of one of the last summery weekends and head south, about a scooter hour away from Hsinchu. It's basically a hill, a few kilometers of coastline and a handful of wind turbines, but despite its simplicity it makes for a beautiful scenery.


A wind turbine at the top of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).

A wind turbine at the top of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).

The coast and the hills around the area are a small wind farm.

The coast and the hills around the area are a small wind farm.

I don't know what it is with people pointing into their photos - photos are supposed to lead the viewer's eye to the right place. This girl was exclusively taking photos of her finger. Apparently the beautiful landscape doesn't speak for itself.

I don't know what it is with people pointing into their photos - photos are supposed to lead the viewer's eye to the right place. This girl was exclusively taking photos of her finger. Apparently the beautiful landscape doesn't speak for itself.

We picked a great day to go there. After a week of freezing cold weather (temperatures between 20-25 °C ;-) we had real summer temperatures again.

We picked a great day to go there. After a week of freezing cold weather (temperatures between 20-25 °C ;-) we had real summer temperatures again.

The trail down to the coast.

The trail down to the coast.

The beautifully decorated blue sky.

The beautifully decorated blue sky.

From here there are two trails down to the coast.

From here there are two trails down to the coast.

Wind turbines on the hill of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).

Wind turbines on the hill of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).

A small scarp where long-buried shells and other sea animals are visible in stacked sediment layers.

A small scarp where long-buried shells and other sea animals are visible in stacked sediment layers.

The some eighty meters high hill of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao) as seen from the coast.

The some eighty meters high hill of 好望角 (Hao wang jiao) as seen from the coast.

Wind turbines close to 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan).

Wind turbines close to 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan).

A wind turbine at 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan). Literally the name translates to "Cape Paradise" but if paradise has that much trash and broken glass lying around I'd rather stay out of paradise.

A wind turbine at 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan). Literally the name translates to "Cape Paradise" but if paradise has that much trash and broken glass lying around I'd rather stay out of paradise.

Pebble beach at 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan).

Pebble beach at 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan).

Tidal ponds near 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan). Note the beautiful tires enhancing the scenery ...

Tidal ponds near 海角樂園 (Hai jiao le yuan). Note the beautiful tires enhancing the scenery ...

An old railway tunnel. You can actually walk through but because we didn't know where we would end up we decided to take a raincheck.

An old railway tunnel. You can actually walk through but because we didn't know where we would end up we decided to take a raincheck.

The second trail back up to 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).

The second trail back up to 好望角 (Hao wang jiao).


東眼山 (Dong yan shan)

posted by Martin Rubli at 11:05

Two months ago, in preparation for our 雙北 biking trip, we had biked to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan). To be more precise, only to the entrance of the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreational Area) because there's nothing to see inside if you're sitting on a bike. Anyway, the area looked so nice at the time that I figured on this long weekend (Moon festival) I could take Ivy there by scooter for a bit of hiking to the top of the mountain.

We were a bit skeptical at first regarding the weather but we ended up lucky since the sky up in 桃園 (Taoyuan) was less cloudy than back home. The view at the top is great indeed but I'll let you see for yourself:


The head of the 東眼山志繼山步道 (Dong yan shan & Zhi ji shan hiking trail) is located along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) about 1-2 kilometers before the entrance to the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreation Area).

The head of the 東眼山志繼山步道 (Dong yan shan & Zhi ji shan hiking trail) is located along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) about 1-2 kilometers before the entrance to the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreation Area).

There are two places where the trail would be very easy to miss if it weren't for the omnipresent little flags that hiking clubs hang as part of a little "been there" tagging game.

There are two places where the trail would be very easy to miss if it weren't for the omnipresent little flags that hiking clubs hang as part of a little "been there" tagging game.

Not the entire trail is that hard to follow. Most of it looks something like this.

Not the entire trail is that hard to follow. Most of it looks something like this.

Even though the trail runs along the ridge, which, incidentally, is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 新北市 (New Taipei city), there are not many places where you get a view because of the dense vegetation. Once in a while, though, there will be a tree missing and you can see the view, complete with one of the many beautiful butterflies.

Even though the trail runs along the ridge, which, incidentally, is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 新北市 (New Taipei city), there are not many places where you get a view because of the dense vegetation. Once in a while, though, there will be a tree missing and you can see the view, complete with one of the many beautiful butterflies.

The top of 志繼山 (Zhi ji shan), roughly half an hour from the trail head. Unfortunately there's nothing to see here, so for the view you have to keep going to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan).

The top of 志繼山 (Zhi ji shan), roughly half an hour from the trail head. Unfortunately there's nothing to see here, so for the view you have to keep going to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan).

The trail is apparently not very well frequented, so I had to wield a stick in front of my body the entire time to avoid collecting spiders and their sticky homes.

The trail is apparently not very well frequented, so I had to wield a stick in front of my body the entire time to avoid collecting spiders and their sticky homes.

At this point we entered the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreational Area) where the nature trails make way to stairs and other overdeveloped trail forms. There's a little pavilion along the way that provides a bit of the view. Still not beautiful enough though, so we kept going ...

At this point we entered the 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Dong yan shan National Forest Recreational Area) where the nature trails make way to stairs and other overdeveloped trail forms. There's a little pavilion along the way that provides a bit of the view. Still not beautiful enough though, so we kept going ...

The stairs leading up to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan).

The stairs leading up to 東眼山 (Dong yan shan).

The entrance to the lookout platform on top of 東眼山 (Dong yan shan). It's not exactly reassuring to see a "Only 5 people at a time on the stairs" sign but we've crossed weaker looking bridges on our previous hikes, so it didn't scare us off.

The entrance to the lookout platform on top of 東眼山 (Dong yan shan). It's not exactly reassuring to see a "Only 5 people at a time on the stairs" sign but we've crossed weaker looking bridges on our previous hikes, so it didn't scare us off.

Finally at the top we asked a nice yet geographically slightly challenged couple to take a picture of us. I call for better geography education in Taiwan! :-)

Finally at the top we asked a nice yet geographically slightly challenged couple to take a picture of us. I call for better geography education in Taiwan! :-)

The view at the top is indeed rewarding because you can see all the way to Taipei. It's not clear on the picture but you can see 觀音山 (Guan yin shan), 陽明山 (Yang ming shan), and even Taipei 101 with your bare eyes.

The view at the top is indeed rewarding because you can see all the way to Taipei. It's not clear on the picture but you can see 觀音山 (Guan yin shan), 陽明山 (Yang ming shan), and even Taipei 101 with your bare eyes.

Looking southwards we only saw a big cloud creeping over the higher mountains in the distance. Judging from Google Earth you might be able to see 雪山 (Xue shan) on a clear day.

Looking southwards we only saw a big cloud creeping over the higher mountains in the distance. Judging from Google Earth you might be able to see 雪山 (Xue shan) on a clear day.

According to the map the 東眼山步道 (Dong yan shan hiking trail) actually continues towards the East, so that you can eventually reach 拉卡山 (La ka shan) and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan). Indeed, the trail does continue if you pass the stairs and under the view platform. If this overgrown little sign is any indicator at all 拉卡山 (La ka shan) can be reached in 160 minutes and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan) in 200 minutes. Going there and coming back would be a solid one-day hike, so I guess we'll save that for some other day.

According to the map the 東眼山步道 (Dong yan shan hiking trail) actually continues towards the East, so that you can eventually reach 拉卡山 (La ka shan) and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan). Indeed, the trail does continue if you pass the stairs and under the view platform. If this overgrown little sign is any indicator at all 拉卡山 (La ka shan) can be reached in 160 minutes and 雙溪山 (Shuang xi shan) in 200 minutes. Going there and coming back would be a solid one-day hike, so I guess we'll save that for some other day.

Having enjoyed the view we went back down the stairs where the triangulation point is (interestingly enough not in the highest point) and enjoyed our lunch in the shade.

Having enjoyed the view we went back down the stairs where the triangulation point is (interestingly enough not in the highest point) and enjoyed our lunch in the shade.

The way down is even fancier than the way up. And the closer we got to the park's tourist information center the clearer it became that this is where city people take their kids to "see nature".

The way down is even fancier than the way up. And the closer we got to the park's tourist information center the clearer it became that this is where city people take their kids to "see nature".

There's something to be said for the design of their bathroom, both inside ...

There's something to be said for the design of their bathroom, both inside ...

... and outside.

... and outside.

The last few hundred meters between the park's entrance and the restaurant look like this. And sure enough you can see people with high heels getting their few hours worth' of nature. :-)

If you're like me and always give people the benefit of the doubt you might be disappointed here: I suspected this might be the wheelchair-accessible section of their forest trail, but alas, shortly after a flight of stairs set an end to that thought.

The last few hundred meters between the park's entrance and the restaurant look like this. And sure enough you can see people with high heels getting their few hours worth' of nature. :-)

If you're like me and always give people the benefit of the doubt you might be disappointed here: I suspected this might be the wheelchair-accessible section of their forest trail, but alas, shortly after a flight of stairs set an end to that thought.

In their tourist center they have a bunch of cute animals made from the forest's ingredients.

In their tourist center they have a bunch of cute animals made from the forest's ingredients.

After exiting the park area we had to walk along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) for about twenty minutes to get back to our scooter. Traffic was very light though ...

After exiting the park area we had to walk along 成福道路 (Cheng fu road) for about twenty minutes to get back to our scooter. Traffic was very light though ...

... and the approaching sunset made for a nice view.

... and the approaching sunset made for a nice view.

For reference, here's a picture of the park map. Click here for a bigger version.

For reference, here's a picture of the park map. [local:/gallery/data/dong-yan-shan/images/original/20110709-110418_MR9835_Z750.jpg Click here for a bigger version].

And, as always, the track log:


Taipei Zoo

posted by Martin Rubli at 10:28

We like to go to the zoo once in a while, and this time I had the proper equipment for it: a 55-300 mm lens for my DSLR. It's like wildlife photography for people without patience and money for expensive photo equipment. :-)

Formosan Wild Boar

Formosan Wild Boar

Addax

Addax

Formosan Serow

Formosan Serow

A Formosan Rock Macaque with a background of fake rain.

A Formosan Rock Macaque with a background of fake rain.

Black Sugar, the zoo's Formosan Black Bear was tirelessly (haha, get it?) playing with a tire.

Black Sugar, the zoo's Formosan Black Bear was tirelessly (haha, get it?) playing with a tire.

A Southern Pig-tailed Macaque. Does this remind anyone else of that [http://images.google.com/search?q=gollum&hl=en&num=0&biw=1044&bih=964&tbm=isch annoying little creature] from Lord of the Rings?

A Southern Pig-tailed Macaque. Does this remind anyone else of that annoying little creature from Lord of the Rings?

Southern Pig-tailed Macaques

Southern Pig-tailed Macaques

This was hilarious. The Malayan Tapirs were just being fed but the Siamangs immediately started stealing the vegetables and sneaked off with them. The tapirs couldn't care less though - they seemed more interested in the green leaves.

This was hilarious. The Malayan Tapirs were just being fed but the Siamangs immediately started stealing the vegetables and sneaked off with them. The tapirs couldn't care less though - they seemed more interested in the green leaves.

Another Siamang approaching to steal the tapirs' food.

Another Siamang approaching to steal the tapirs' food.

Asian Elephant

Asian Elephant

A very happy Bactrian Camel.

A very happy Bactrian Camel.

All the camels seemed extremely happy, just like this Dromedary.

All the camels seemed extremely happy, just like this Dromedary.

A Giraffe clumsily sitting down, so it could eat the grass from a more comfortable position.

A Giraffe clumsily sitting down, so it could eat the grass from a more comfortable position.

An unidentified bird sitting on a White Rhinoceros.

An unidentified bird sitting on a White Rhinoceros.

An unidentified turtle

An unidentified turtle

團團 (Tuan tuan), the male panda, doing what he does best: lying around in the same place he was when we visited him two years ago. With that sort of energy level it's no big surprise that Pandas are endangered.

團團 (Tuan tuan), the male panda, doing what he does best: lying around in the same place he was when we visited him two years ago. With that sort of energy level it's no big surprise that Pandas are endangered.

The poorest Pelican you'll ever see. It's hard to imagine how he can survive with half his beak missing but he seems to manage. When he drinks he just quickly snaps back his head, so that the water won't flow it.

The poorest Pelican you'll ever see. It's hard to imagine how he can survive with half his beak missing but he seems to manage. When he drinks he just quickly snaps back his head, so that the water won't flow it.

A healthier specimen of a Pelican

A healthier specimen of a Pelican

African Elephant

African Elephant

"Drink water, eat rabbit"

"Drink water, eat rabbit"


Comfort food

posted by Martin Rubli at 16:14

Because pictures say more than words and because drooling on your mouse or keyboard might make the Logitech stock price go up ...

The legendary [local:/blog/2010/07/21/chocolate-goodness/ Chocolate Cake], now with sprinkles!

The legendary Chocolate Cake, now with sprinkles!

Zopf, a traditional type of Swiss bread.

Zopf, a traditional type of Swiss bread.

A totally new shape of Zopf. It's actually a long, ordinary Zopf turned into a knot. :-)

A totally new shape of Zopf. It's actually a long, ordinary Zopf turned into a knot. :-)


Google Maps supersized

posted by Martin Rubli at 13:39

Recently seen in Taipei ...

The biggest Google Maps marker ever!

兩日雙北 (Two days, two cross-island highways)

posted by Martin Rubli at 16:33

Four bikes, two days, 292 kilometers, and eight very sore legs. That's the summary of last weekend's bike trip which took us from 新竹縣 (Hsinchu county) across the central mountain range to 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county) and back the next day:

The lower arc was the first day, the upper arc the second day. These are the elevation diagrams:

Elevation diagram: Day 1

Elevation diagram: Day 2


It's difficult in Taiwan to avoid the traffic, especially on popular routes like the cross-island highways. Accidents on those narrow mountain roads are unfortunately quite frequent, caused by aggressively driving motorcyclists, Sunday car drivers who lack mountain road skills, but also by careless cyclists without lights or helmet.

There are a few tunnels on these roads, so any vehicle entering the completely unilluminated tunnel from the bright sunlight is unlikely to see an unlit cyclist. And the number of riders who consider a helmet nothing but an unnecessarily heavy sun shield is alarmingly high. I didn't get to shoot any "Darwin at work" photos but we did cross an ambulance on the way.

We chose - equipped with helmets and lights - to leave on Sunday morning in an attempt to minimize traffic, at least for the second day. Getting up at 0430 in the morning is probably my least favorite part about biking, and the sunrise isn't worth it, but with over 160 km to go on the first day it is a necessity.

Schedule (Day 1)

Day 1:

0530: Meeting point, 竹北喜來登大飯店 (Zhubei Sheraton Hotel)
0625: 關西 (Guan xi)
0630: Rest stop, 台3線/羅馬公路入口 (Highway 3 & Luo ma gong lu entrance)
0645: Departure, 羅馬公路入口 (Luo ma gong lu entrance)
0840: 羅馬公路出口 (Luo ma gong lu exit)
0855: 北橫入口 (Northern Cross-island highway entrance)
0915: Rest stop, 北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing)
0925: Departure, 北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing)
1035: 蘇樂橋 (Su le bridge)
1045: 巴陵大橋 (Big Ba ling bridge)
1125: 巴陵/拉拉山叉路 (Ba ling, La La shan fork)
1255: 四陵 (Si ling)
1315: 桃園縣/宜蘭縣 縣界 (Taoyuan county/Yilan county border)
1335: Lunch break, 明池 (Ming chi)
1455: Departure, 明池 (Ming chi)
1515: Highest point of Highway 7
1525: "777", 台7線77公里 (Highway 7, 77 km sign)
1600: 台7線/台7甲線叉路 (Highway 7 & Highway 7-bis crossroad)
1720: 圓山 (Yuan shan)
1805: 礁溪 (Jiao xi)

Distance: 162.2 km
Ascent: 2580 m
Maximum elevation: 1215 m


The second day was marked mostly by sore legs, joints, butts, and other body parts, on top of which came the heat of a clear summer day. Unlike the previous day where the mountainous climate cooled us down a little bit, wind and clouds were a rarity. After lunch an outside thermometer displayed 42 °C in the sun.

Unfortunately there is no interesting route back from Taipei to Hsinchu, so after the relatively quiet highway 110 we soon ended up on highway 3, one of the two large and long roads that connect Northern Taiwan with Southern Taiwan. The traffic on those is rather annoying and we soon ended up in the middle of rush hour traffic.

Only after 龍潭 (Long tan), where we took a shortcut, did the traffic get better again. Of course the shortcut came with a price: The last ascent of the day. But with over 250 km behind you most of your body is numb anyway, so it doesn't hurt that much.

Schedule (Day 2)

0820: Departure, 礁溪 (Jiao xi)
0935: Rest stop, 1st peak, 宜蘭縣/新北市 縣界 (Yilan county/Taipei City border)
0950: Departure
1040: Rest stop, 坪林 (Ping lin)
1105: Departure
1155: Rest stop, 石碇 (Shi ding)
1225: Departure
1245: Lunch break, 新店 (Xin dian)
1335: Departure, 42 °C outside!
1430: Rest stop, 三峽 大成國小 (San xia, Da cheng elementary school)
1455: Departure
1500: 三峽 台110線/台3線叉路 (San xia, Highway 110/3 crossroads)
1520: Rest stop, 三峽 台3線/台7線叉路 (San xia, Highway 3/7 crossroads)
1530: Departure
1700: 龍潭 (Long tan)
1715: Rest stop
1730: Departure
1800: 新埔 (Xin pu)
1815: 竹北喜來登大飯店 (Zhubei Sheraton Hotel)

Distance: 133.5 km
Ascent: 1681 m
Maximum elevation: 552 m


Photos

The start of 北橫 (Bei heng), the Northern Cross-Island Highway. Getting there from Hsinchu already took us a slightly over three hours, so we started the difficult part of our trip with over 60 km in our legs.

The start of 北橫 (Bei heng), the Northern Cross-Island Highway. Getting there from Hsinchu already took us a slightly over three hours, so we started the difficult part of our trip with over 60 km in our legs.

A preview of what I imagine my daughter would look like if I had one: a sixth-grader on a road bike.

A preview of what I imagine my daughter would look like if I had one: a sixth-grader on a road bike.

北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing) is a popular rest stop for cyclists, bikers, and other tourists. The shops there sell 水蜜桃蜜 (Peach honey water) but trying is free.

北橫之星 (Bei heng zhi xing) is a popular rest stop for cyclists, bikers, and other tourists. The shops there sell 水蜜桃蜜 (Peach honey water) but trying is free.

The western part of the highway has a lot of downhill sections - not exactly what you want when you're trying to make your way up to 1,200 m.

The western part of the highway has a lot of downhill sections - not exactly what you want when you're trying to make your way up to 1,200 m.

The view of the mountains still ahead of us.

The view of the mountains still ahead of us.

Something in his face seems to say "What am I doing here?" ...

Something in his face seems to say "What am I doing here?" ...

The remains of an old dam. It was probably torn down when the 荣华大壩 (Rong hua dam) was built a few hundred meters upstream.

The remains of an old dam. It was probably torn down when the 荣华大壩 (Rong hua dam) was built a few hundred meters upstream.

The new 巴陵大橋 (Big Ba Ling bridge), built in 2005.

The new 巴陵大橋 (Big Ba Ling bridge), built in 2005.

And the older 巴陵橋 (Ba Ling bridge), which is now exclusively for pedestrians (and bikers if you don't mind the dark tunnels on both sides).

And the older 巴陵橋 (Ba Ling bridge), which is now exclusively for pedestrians (and bikers if you don't mind the dark tunnels on both sides).

View of the river shortly after the 巴陵橋 (Ba Ling bridge).

View of the river shortly after the 巴陵橋 (Ba Ling bridge).

Just before the fork to 拉拉山 (La la shan). After this point the traffic becomes a lot lighter and the road narrower.

Just before the fork to 拉拉山 (La la shan). After this point the traffic becomes a lot lighter and the road narrower.

There are many misleading road signs in Taiwan, but this is one of the more frustrating ones. The altitude of 1,140 meters is not actually measured at this point but a few kilometers later after a further ascent of over 100 meters!

There are many misleading road signs in Taiwan, but this is one of the more frustrating ones. The altitude of 1,140 meters is not actually measured at this point but a few kilometers later after a further ascent of over 100 meters!

A dyslexic toilet in 四陵 (Si ling). I'd bet good money that the sign was written by the same person who misplaced the "Elevation: 1,140 meters" sign. :-)

A dyslexic toilet in 四陵 (Si ling). I'd bet good money that the sign was written by the same person who misplaced the "Elevation: 1,140 meters" sign. :-)

The closer we got to the top the more the weather started to turn. Taiwan's mountain roads are infamous for quickly turning weather, so we were extremely lucky to stay dry for the duration of the whole trip.

The closer we got to the top the more the weather started to turn. Taiwan's mountain roads are infamous for quickly turning weather, so we were extremely lucky to stay dry for the duration of the whole trip.

Finally, 大同鄉 (Da tong township)! This point is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county).

Finally, 大同鄉 (Da tong township)! This point is the border between 桃園縣 (Taoyuan county) and 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county).

Murals of the local tribe's traditions along the side of the road.

Murals of the local tribe's traditions along the side of the road.

Richard and Sonic arriving in 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county). From here to the highest point of 北橫 (Northern Cross-Island Highway) there are still several downhill sections, but lunch is only a few kilometers away ...

Richard and Sonic arriving in 宜蘭縣 (Yilan county). From here to the highest point of 北橫 (Northern Cross-Island Highway) there are still several downhill sections, but lunch is only a few kilometers away ...

台7線, Highway 7 close to 明池 (Ming chi).

台7線, Highway 7 close to 明池 (Ming chi).

Our lunch stop for the day: 明池 (Ming chi).

Our lunch stop for the day: 明池 (Ming chi).

The famous old tree next to the 明池山莊 (Ming chi mountain hostel).

The famous old tree next to the 明池山莊 (Ming chi mountain hostel).

My trusted GT mountain bike. I had chosen the mountain bike over the road bike to spare my knees and make the lengthy downhill part more enjoyable. I had switched to thinner road tires just for this trip, which makes a world of difference.

My trusted GT mountain bike. I had chosen the mountain bike over the road bike to spare my knees and make the lengthy downhill part more enjoyable. I had switched to thinner road tires just for this trip, which makes a world of difference.

明池 (Ming chi) literally means "clear lake". But this green sludge hardly deserves the name! I guess even geography is all about marketing ...

明池 (Ming chi) literally means "clear lake". But this green sludge hardly deserves the name! I guess even geography is all about marketing ...

The last uphill segment between 明池 (Ming chi) and the highest point of the day. The latter one is so unspectacular and hard to determine that there are no pictures. :-)

The last uphill segment between 明池 (Ming chi) and the highest point of the day. The latter one is so unspectacular and hard to determine that there are no pictures. :-)

Ray, visibly happy to have reached "777", the most famous spot of 台7線 (Highway 7). Hardly a cyclist doesn't stop there to take a few pictures.

Ray, visibly happy to have reached "777", the most famous spot of 台7線 (Highway 7). Hardly a cyclist doesn't stop there to take a few pictures.

The vast riverbed in 大同 (Da tong) is being used as a farmland for water melons. From here it was all flat until our hotel, but still over 30 kilometers to go. This was the only time I really wished for my road bike.

The vast riverbed in 大同 (Da tong) is being used as a farmland for water melons. From here it was all flat until our hotel, but still over 30 kilometers to go. This was the only time I really wished for my road bike.

On the morning of the second day in front of our hotel in 礁溪 (Jiao xi), from right to left: Ray, myself, Sonic, Richard, and Richard's wife. Richard's wife did us a huge favor by accompanying us by car and making sure we were well watered and fed for the entire time.

On the morning of the second day in front of our hotel in 礁溪 (Jiao xi), from right to left: Ray, myself, Sonic, Richard, and Richard's wife. Richard's wife did us a huge favor by accompanying us by car and making sure we were well watered and fed for the entire time.

龜山島 (Turtle Island) as seen from the 北宜 (Taipei-Yilan Highway). The road crosses two mountains on the way from 礁溪 (Jiao xi) to 新店 (Xin dian). Luckily neither one of them are as high as the first day's.

龜山島 (Turtle Island) as seen from the 北宜 (Taipei-Yilan Highway). The road crosses two mountains on the way from 礁溪 (Jiao xi) to 新店 (Xin dian). Luckily neither one of them are as high as the first day's.

A statue on the side of the road.

A statue on the side of the road.

On top of the last mountain of the day, just before the downhill section to 新店 (Xin dian).

On top of the last mountain of the day, just before the downhill section to 新店 (Xin dian).

The view of the 翡翠水庫 (Fei cui reservoir) between the trees.

The view of the 翡翠水庫 (Fei cui reservoir) between the trees.

View from 石碇 (Shi ding) towards the Northern end of Taiwan.

View from 石碇 (Shi ding) towards the Northern end of Taiwan.

Without a doubt the hottest part of our two-day bike trip. The temperatures in 新店 (Xin dian) had reached over 40 degrees, so on the way back to 三峽 (San xia) our brains were nearly boiling under our helmets.

Without a doubt the hottest part of our two-day bike trip. The temperatures in 新店 (Xin dian) had reached over 40 degrees, so on the way back to 三峽 (San xia) our brains were nearly boiling under our helmets.

Fortunately Taiwan is full of little wayside pavilions, just the thing to take a quick rest.

Fortunately Taiwan is full of little wayside pavilions, just the thing to take a quick rest.


Switzerland 2011: Matzlenfurggelen

posted by Martin Rubli at 16:04

If you can properly pronounce this mountain's name you're halfway ready for your Swiss passport: Matzlenfurggelen.

The peak itself is quite easily reachable and not that tall, but it gives a beautiful 360° view of valleys, lakes, and mountains. We took a tiny cable car to reach the level of the Stausee Garichti, an old reservoir, and hiked from there.

Despite the initial drizzle we ended up very lucky with the weather and spotting some wildlife, giving me a chance to play with my new 300 mm zoom lens. Bird or no bird, this was my favorite hiking trip of my vacation.


The view from the Matzlenfurggelen hiking trail. From left to right: Vorder Glärnisch, Wiggis, Rautispitz

The view from the Matzlenfurggelen hiking trail. From left to right: Vorder Glärnisch, Wiggis, Rautispitz

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhododendron_ferrugineum Alpenrose] is a beautiful kind of Rhododendron that's very common in the Swiss Alps.

Alpenrose is a beautiful kind of Rhododendron that's very common in the Swiss Alps.

A field of Alpenrosen with the distinctive Glärnisch in the background.

A field of Alpenrosen with the distinctive Glärnisch in the background.

The Garichti dam and part of the reservoir.

The Garichti dam and part of the reservoir.

The north side of the Kärpf, still partly covered in snow.

The north side of the Kärpf, still partly covered in snow.

Clouds behind the peak of the Matzlenfurggelen.

Clouds behind the peak of the Matzlenfurggelen.

At the top of the Matzlenfurggelen with a beautiful view of the Linth valley.

At the top of the Matzlenfurggelen with a beautiful view of the Linth valley.

A hiking trail zig-zagging upwards from the east side of the lake.

A hiking trail zig-zagging upwards from the east side of the lake.

The Glärnisch, the most prominent mountain in the area. On the other side lies the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klöntalersee Klöntalersee].

The Glärnisch, the most prominent mountain in the area. On the other side lies the Klöntalersee.

A Common Buzzard (I believe ...) hovering in mid-air looking for prey.

A Common Buzzard (I believe ...) hovering in mid-air looking for prey.

The beautiful plumage illuminated by light but unfortunately slightly out of focus because the photographer is normally shooting less agile subjects like mountains or lakes ...

The beautiful plumage illuminated by light but unfortunately slightly out of focus because the photographer is normally shooting less agile subjects like mountains or lakes ...

Apparently even letting yourself carry by the wind is tiring.

Apparently even letting yourself carry by the wind is tiring.

The tree makes for a good photo subject even without any birds sitting on it. :-)

The tree makes for a good photo subject even without any birds sitting on it. :-)

I managed to sneak fairly close up to the buzzard without bothering him ...

I managed to sneak fairly close up to the buzzard without bothering him ...

... and ended up catching him all fluffed up by the wind. It almost makes you want to cuddle it if it weren't for the claws and the beak.

... and ended up catching him all fluffed up by the wind. It almost makes you want to cuddle it if it weren't for the claws and the beak.

More Alpenrosen. Like many other Rhododendron this one is actually poisonous.

More Alpenrosen. Like many other Rhododendron this one is actually poisonous.

Hiking with the Glärnisch in the background.

Hiking with the Glärnisch in the background.

A nice view of the Linth valley: Schwanden is the small town in front and Glarus, the canton's capital, is the slightly bigger one in the back.

A nice view of the Linth valley: Schwanden is the small town in front and Glarus, the canton's capital, is the slightly bigger one in the back.


Switzerland 2011: Gruenseeli and Rheinschlucht

posted by Martin Rubli at 14:15

Next up are the photos of two little hikes we did, the first one to an idyllic mountain lake called Grüenseeli, the second one to what some people call the "Swiss Grand Canyon".

After a huge landslide covered large parts of a valley with rubble 10,000 years ago, the Anterior Rhine started digging the canyon known as the Ruinaulta. It has become a popular destination for hikers, bikers, rafters, and, apparently, Swiss people living abroad. ;-)

The Grüenseeli (probably) doesn't have such an exciting history. It is a tiny lake that lies not too far from Arosa, yet far enough to keep away the tourist masses. Luckily this wasn't a concern for us in the first place since summer vacation season hadn't started yet. More of a concern was the weather which set an abrupt end to my taking pictures when the looming rain clouds finally opened their flood gates and forced my camera to retreat.


A bench by a little lake called Grüenseeli. Swiss German likes diminutives, so this one means "Little green lake". :-)

A bench by a little lake called Grüenseeli. Swiss German likes diminutives, so this one means "Little green lake". :-)

The inflowing creek to the lake.

The inflowing creek to the lake.

The water in these mountain lakes is so clear you could have a swim - if it weren't for the cold temperatures.

The water in these mountain lakes is so clear you could have a swim - if it weren't for the cold temperatures.

A second little lake just above the first one. In the background the Western half of the Tiejer Flue.

A second little lake just above the first one. In the background the Western half of the Tiejer Flue.

(untitled)
Gentiana ("Enzian" in German) along the way.

Gentiana ("Enzian" in German) along the way.

Some more alpine flowers that look nice but whose names are beyond my botanic knowledge.

Some more alpine flowers that look nice but whose names are beyond my botanic knowledge.

A fallen tree serving as an island to flowers.

A fallen tree serving as an island to flowers.

And yet more flowers ... The last ones to hit my viewfinder before rain forced me to pack away the camera and throw on a rain jacket.

And yet more flowers ... The last ones to hit my viewfinder before rain forced me to pack away the camera and throw on a rain jacket.


What looks like your ordinary mountain on this photo is actually the South side of a massive high plateau, the Flimserstein.

What looks like your ordinary mountain on this photo is actually the South side of a massive high plateau, the Flimserstein.

The forest hiking trail leading from Trin Mulin to the Rheinschlucht (Ruinaulta).

The forest hiking trail leading from Trin Mulin to the Rheinschlucht (Ruinaulta).

Angry Birds meets traditional Swiss chalet.

Angry Birds meets traditional Swiss chalet.

The brown bear is making a return to the Swiss forests.

The brown bear is making a return to the Swiss forests.

Il spir, the spectacular view platform that opened in 2006. Although not exactly obvious its shape was inspired by that of the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Swift Common Swift].

Il spir, the spectacular view platform that opened in 2006. Although not exactly obvious its shape was inspired by that of the Common Swift.

The view down into the "Swiss Grand Canyon", a canyon dug by the Rhine's headwaters after a vast landslide about 10,000 years ago.

The view down into the "Swiss Grand Canyon", a canyon dug by the Rhine's headwaters after a vast landslide about 10,000 years ago.

Il spir.

Il spir.

The view platform is a popular attraction for hikers and other outdoor fans.

The view platform is a popular attraction for hikers and other outdoor fans.

"Zault", a more recently erected view platform on the opposite side of the canyon.

"Zault", a more recently erected view platform on the opposite side of the canyon.


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