Martin's personal blog – January 2021
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2021-01-17 | 畢羊縱走 (Bi lu Yang tou ridge trail)
Here's another trip report from 2020. We had actually planned this hike for 2019 but had to cancel because of an approaching typhoon at the time. A year later we were luckier with the weather and the middle of summer is quite suitable for such a one-day challenge because there's not a lot to bring along.
We stayed the night before in 大禹嶺 (Da yu ling) which is just a few walking minutes away from the 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan) trail head. Because we were going to come back down from a different trail head about 15 km away we booked a shuttle that would pick us up and take us back to 大禹嶺 (Da yu ling).
You'll notice that there are large stretches without photos and a few smartphone photos are mixed in. I had my DSLR stowed away in my backpack for most of the trip because with all the ups and downs it's nice to have your hands free. Also, it was fairly cloudy for most of the day, which reduces the motivation to have a camera dangling from your neck. Still, I hope you get an impression of what the route was like.
I had hiked both of the two mountains separately about four years earlier. Here are links to the corresponding posts:
⇒ 2016: 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan)
⇒ 2016: 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan)
Overview
(Click the image for a larger version.)
The bottom left is 大禹嶺 (Da yu ling) where we started our hike (the short straight line there is the tunnel). The lower right is 慈恩登山口 (Ci en trail head) where we finished and were picked up by the shuttle.
A different perspective with the car ride back in blue.
大禹嶺 (Da yu ling) – 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan) – 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan) – 慈恩登山口 (Ci en trail head)
0505: Departure from 大禹嶺 (Da yu ling), 2450 m
0735: Begin ascent at 8.4 km (waterfall), 2442 m
0900: Rope climbing
0945: Ridge trail fork, 3340 m, short break
1000: Arrival at 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan), 3371 m
1035: Departure
1040: Ridge trail fork
1105: Dry valley, 3270 m
1230: 鋸山 (Ju shan), 3275 m
1235: Continue
1305: 2.1 km campsite, 3162 m
1355: Ridge trail fork towards 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan) and 慈恩登山口 (Ci en trail head), 3040 m
1410: Continue
1450: Arrival at 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan), 3035 m
1520: Departure
1600: Ridge trail fork
1605: Continue towards 慈恩登山口 (Ci en trail head)
1750: Arrival at 慈恩登山口 (Ci en trail head)
Total: ca. 18.9 km, 12h40min (incl. 1h40min breaks)
Peakfinder
畢祿山 (Bi lu shan)
羊頭山 (Yang tou shan)
Photos
The caterpillar of a tussock moth we encountered the night before the hike.
The famous climbing section on the way to 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan) where you have to pull yourself up on roots and ropes for a few meters.
At the ridge close to 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan). We first turned left to the peak and later returned to continue our way to 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan).
無明山 (Wu ming shan) to the north east with its prominent scree slope. Hiding in the clouds behind it would be 中央尖山 (Zhong yang jian shan).
鋸子連峰 (Ju zi lian feng or "sawtooth hill chain") between 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan) and 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan). While the ridge trail doesn't pass through every hilltop there is a fair bit of up and down, and this is the exhausting part of the hike.
The trail down a dry valley behind the first hill which would be way too steep to scale head on. After about 150 meters the valley trail leaves to the right but the signage is poor (looking at you, Taroko national park administration!), which caused three hikers to get lost a few months later, requiring a rescue operation.
The short climb to the top of 鋸山 (Ju shan), the only one peak in the hill chain with a name (translating to "saw mountain").
Finally at the other end of the ridge trail. Again, we would climb 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan) first before heading down to the other trail head.
Our arrival on 羊頭山 (Yang tou shan) concided with the weather suddenly improving and the cloud cover lifting to reveal not only 無明山 (Wu ming shan) on the left but also 中央尖山 (Zhong yang jian shan) in the far center.
The view back to the ridge along we had hiked from 畢祿山 (Bi lu shan). The grassy mountain on the left side is 合歡北峰 (He huan north peak).
The view towards 武嶺 (Wu ling). If you look closely you can see part of the road leading from 武嶺 (Wu ling) to 大禹嶺 (Da yu ling) where we had started our hike in the morning. On the right-hand side is 合歡北峰 (He huan north peak) with its prominent microwave reflector half-way up.
2021-01-15 | 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak) and 南華山 (Nan hua shan)
I'm starting 2021 by catching up with last year's hikes that I hadn't posted yet because of the sad demise of GPSies where I had been hosting my tracks. I've finally found time to switch to Leaflet, so here we go: A hike from June 2020 to 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak) and 南華山 (Nan hua shan).
This marked my third visit to the apparently cursed – for me anyway – 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut). After having little luck the first two times round (due to insomnia and weather) the third time turned out to be the proverbial charm. The weather was great and so was the hike.
The trail was quite busy on that weekend, presumably due to the pandemic that sent people outdoors instead of abroad. Also notable were a number of young kids (early elementary school I'd guess) who walked an impressive distance for such a young age.
The two-day/one-night trip took us to 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut) on the first day. The second day we climbed the two peaks nearby and then made our way back down to the trail head.
Another trip report is coming up soon but for now please enjoy!
Overview
(Click the image for a larger version.)
Day 1: 屯原登山口 (Tun yuan trail head) – 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut)
0925: Departure from 屯原登山口 (Tun yuan trail head), 1926 m
1050: 雲海保線所 (Yun hai power line maintenance hut), 2360 m
1210: Continue
1430: Arrival at 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut), 2860 m
Total: 13.6 km, 5h05min (incl. 1h20min break)
Extra:
1500: Departure from 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut), 2860 m
1530: 天池 (Tian chi), 3097 m
1535: Departure
1555: Back at 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut)
Day 2: 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut) – 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak) – 南華山 (Nan hua shan) – 屯原登山口 (Tun yuan trail head)
0710: Departure from 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut), 2860 m
0755: 天池 (Tian chi), 3097 m
0825: Trail fork to 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak) and 奇萊裡山 (Qi lai li shan), 3126 m
0930: 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak), 3358 m
1015: Departure
1045: Trail fork
1055: 天池 (Tian chi)
1030: 南華山 (Nan hua shan), 3184 m
1050: Departure
1240: Back at 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut)
Leg total: 8.7 km, 5h30min (incl. 1h05min breaks)
1315: Departure from 天池山莊 (Tian chi mountain hut), 2860 m
1500: 雲海保線所 (Yun hai power line maintenance hut), 2360 m
1505: Continue
1555: Arrival at 屯原登山口 (Tun yuan trail head), 1926 m
Leg total: 13.5 km, 2h40min (incl. 5 min break)
Day total: 22.2 km, 8h45min (incl. 1h45min breaks)
Peakfinder
奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak)
南華山 (Nan hua shan)
Photos
Most people who had to carry their backpacks up here the night before because they couldn't get a space at 天池山莊 (Tian zhu mountain hut) didn't look too happy. No wonder because it's about an extra kilometer of steep stairs.
The trail towards 奇萊南峰 (Qi lai south peak) which is towards the left out of frame. On the far right is 奇萊裡山 (Qi lai li shan) which is on the way to 奇萊主峰 (Qi lai main peak).
Another look back with 南華山 (Nan hua shan) on the left and 能高山 (Neng gao shan) on the right in the far back.
A dark spot gentian along the way (黑斑龍膽, Gentiana scabrida)
The trail fork in the background is where we came from. A right turn takes you back to 天池 (Tian chi), a left turn to 奇萊裡山 (Qi lai li shan).
Another gentiana, this time presumably a Gentiana arisanensis 阿里山龍膽.
Looking north there's also a great view of the road to 武嶺 (Wuling). The peak on the left with the visible road is 合歡主峰 (He huan main peak), on the right is 合歡東峰 (He huan east peak). On the far right in the background the microwave reflector half-way up to 合歡北峰 (He huan north peak). The tall peak in the left background is 雪山 (Xue shan).
The only thing the bureaucrats at the Taroko National Park office are good at: coming up with rules and having them printed on oversized signs that some poor sod then has to carry up the mountain.
My favorite: "Forbidden are ... other things that are forbidden in the National Park." 👍